We just returned to Cairo after traveling for almost three weeks in the southern state of Kerala, India. We chose a tropical place to spend our Christmas break to get away from the cooler weather of Cairo in winter. Also we chose India for the unique cultural opportunity as well as a cheaper place to travel. Upon exiting the airport in Cochin, we were hit with hot, humid air at 3 in the morning. As we looked for the driver who was supposed to meet us, we could not help but notice how busy the place was. There were people everywhere, including small children. I expected the airport to be empty at that hour. When we finally located our driver, we drove an hour north to a beach along the Arabian Sea. We spent our first six days there, exploring, swimming, and traveling locally through the area. Kerala, as we learned, is a much different state than the rest of India. Unlike the Aryan roots of the north, the people of the south are of Dravidian descent. It is a much more laid back place and as we also learned has the world's only democratically elected communist government. It has the highest literacy rate of the whole country.
The food was incredible. We chose mostly a vegetarian diet while we traveled mainly because of the huge variety of choices on the menus. Even Creede and Asa were ordering Indian dishes throughout our stay. The curries and masalas (mixed spices) were great.
From Cochin, we traveled east three hours into the mountains. The driving is even crazier than Cairo! Picture the width of Lake Road in Milton.........now put stores and homes right up to the edge of the road, busses the width of one lane blaring their horns and driving way too fast, pedestrians, cows, trucks, people on bicycles, motorcycles, and many cars all try to be first in line. Passing, driving in the other lane, lots of braking and horns........craziness. We were worn out and stressed out by the time we reached Munnar. We stayed two nights on a 240 acre plantation that grew cardammon, coffee, bananas, pepper and many other tropical plants. It was a beautiful setting. We hiked a couple of times exploring the vegetation and a nearby community. Some people were very excited to see strange faces walking by their homes.........many kids running near us trying to use their English (mostly "hello, hello, hello"). Some asked to take our pictures. We traveled from Munnar for another three hours south to Kumily. The road twisted and turned the entire time through the mountains. We stopped at one point on top of a mountain to visit a Hindu temple. We were the only ones there and the priest or Pujari lit oil lamps for us at each of the shrines and stone deities. It was very peaceful.
Kumily is located at the edge of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. We stayed three nights and yes, we hoped to see an elusive tiger. One of the days, we hiked into the reserve. We saw lots of monkeys, wild boars, and we saw a type of deer which is larger than an elk. No tigers. Probably the most spectacular cultural thing that we saw happened while we were in Kumily and when we were leaving. Our last day in the town, many men started arriving. They were mostly shirtless, shoeless, bundles tied to the top of their heads, and dhotis (fabric) wrapped around their waists. We found out that this is the time of year for a pilgimage to a temple deep in the forest near the tiger reserve. Apparently there is much preparation involved including a strict vegetarian diet and abstenance for a certain period of time. As we left Kumily for our final destination, Varkala - a beach town about six hours to the southeast, we saw many pilgrims walking along the road. Our driver told us that people from all over India make this pilgrimage, many walking hundreds of kilometers. The number of pilgrims increased as we entered a town about two hours into the trip. Apparently, hundreds of years ago, Muslims and Hindus had formed a special friendship whereby during the Hindu pilgrimage, Hindus can enter the mosque in this particular town. Hundreds of Hindus filled the street as we passed through. Many were painted, many played drums, and hundreds formed a fluid motion circling the mosque. They walked up the stairs of the mosque and exited backwards down the stairs. It was an amazing site. The devotion was moving and unlike anything I have ever seen.
We arrived in Varkala late in the day. Again the six hour drive was a bit crazy but this time we paid a little extra for a bigger vehicle with more room to stretch out. Varkala, along the beach, is filled with foreigners (mostly European). The town which is away from the beach is a very spiritual place. We visited a Hindu temple which is over 5,000 years old.......continuously used for worship! The beach time was great, big waves, again good food, and a nice finish to our trip.
After visiting India, I now want to reflect upon our travels to religious places. My family and I have visited a Hindu culture, a Buddhist nation, the center of Judaism and Christianity, and different Muslim cultures. Devotion, beauty, culture, peace, and some practices strange to our upbringing all fill my thoughts. More for the next enty......
